Toyota Celica Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,400 Posts
get one at the junk yard thats what i did because the bolt on mine snapped and get extra bolts because many will snap since their old
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
Yup same here.. when replace old for poly bushings, broke that FKR.. off..maybe im too strong :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Sorry for resurrecting an older thread, but I don't think mbail3y's problem can be solved with a new bracket. The problem is on the other side of the bushing, where a bolt goes through it and threads into the end of the frame rail. I have the same problem, and short of welding a new piece of mental onto the end of the frame rail, I'm not sure what can be done. Does anyone have any ideas? I'll keep you updated as I try to solve it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
The bolb is **** by a nut. Wen u over tight tht nut the bolb brakes. Nd their is 2 big bolts holding the bracket. On one side of the braket their is a bolt nd the other side a whole for a screw... "if i remember correctly"

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Yeah, the problem is with the side where there is a hole for a bolt. The threads that the bolt threads into are in the sub-frame, but that part of the subframe has rusted off on mine and bail3y's cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hello,
I've had a '91convertible for a little a year now and I haven't been able to get rid of a clonking sound in the front right side of the vehicle. I changed the struts the sound went away for a while, but returned. While my brother, who is a mechanic, was changing the sway bar bushings he noticed that the right side mount had caved in due to an impact of some sort. This causes the sound.
Normally that could be hammered out from the inside or I could take it to a welder, but that particular area is pretty rusty and the minute the man puts some heat on it the entire thing will go.
Any ideas?
Best regards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
Time to find a specialty shop that restores antiques. Common problems with rusted bottoms requires sheet metal skill.

They'll cut the rusted part out, and weldin a new piece. There is probably some sort of extra support /metal at the mount point which will become visible when they cut it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Wow. I'm new to the forum but also have the same red '91 convertible. Bought it two weeks ago. Mine is rust free but has lots of miles.268K. Been in storage by the PO for the past 6 years and never been in salt or snow. The suspension bushings are pretty well dried up so I'm replacing those and interested in how the stabilizer bracket broke. Was it while trying to unbolt it or did it just sorta pull out from the rust? When driving over RR tracks etc. the "looseness" is apparent but at least it doesn't shake. Needs transmission work though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
If rust free, then the welded nut might have broken or stripped free. Typical construct for the sway bar nuts and engine support brackets is to have a nut welded into a metal cup and the cup welded to the unibody (with the nut inside).

  • if the bolt broke off, you'll need to drill it out
  • if the nut is stripped, you can try tapping it to a larger size, but you might end up breaking the weld
  • if weld is broken, then a threaded nut might work. You'll need a locking version.
  • if the threaded nut doesn't work, then you'll need to cut the cup off and start over , auto restorer time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Where are you getting the new bushings? I measured the stabilizer bars and came up with 23/24 mm for the front and 17/18 for the rear bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
Got it !
Thank you
Hello,
I've had a '91convertible for a little a year now and I haven't been able to get rid of a clonking sound in the front right side of the vehicle. I changed the struts the sound went away for a while, but returned. While my brother, who is a mechanic, was changing the sway bar bushings he noticed that the right side mount had caved in due to an impact of some sort. This causes the sound.
Normally that could be hammered out from the inside or I could take it to a welder, but that particular area is pretty rusty and the minute the man puts some heat on it the entire thing will go.
Any ideas?
Best regards.
the clonking noise somes times comes from warn out top hats of the of the strut. Make sure they are not worn or blown out my gt had 2 that are bad and on impact it sounds like someone hits the car with a hammer 😂
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top