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Discussion Starter #1
Gents,
Need help to trouble shoot the overheating problem I have. The issue is that my 2000 Celica GT overheats when I drive it, does not when it sits at idle. I just purchased this car yesterday. I have noticed yesterday that my car overheats when I was driving it back home. I pulled over a few times to let the car cool down before I made it home. I noticed while I was waiting for the car to cool down that the cars lower coolant line was really hard, upper was not. Lower was warm but upper was really hot. So today I went to replace thermostat and to my surprise there was none. Funny thing is that the seal was but no thermostat. So that really assures me know that the issue was not a stuck thermostat. Water pump seems to be fine also. What could be the issue gentlemen? Do I have a blockage in the head or somewhere, to where the coolant is not passing through the way it should?
 

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No thermostat on the car? How odd. When you viewed this car before purchase, did you check all fluids or for leaks? There was a recent thread here about this very same issue. I will post the link. Perhaps your issue may be similar.
 

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Yes the fluids we all good, no milky stuff on the oil dip stick. Really had no sign of head issues. No white cloud of smoke or anything. Thanks for the reply.
 

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So no leaky coolant hoses? You should test for air in the coolant system or check your oil for antifreeze in it.
 

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Just got done putting the car back together. I had replaced the thermostat with a new one, so it has one now. Flushed the radiator and engine block by forcing water with a garden hose through both side. There seems to be no issues with blockage or anything. The water ran through both ways on the radiator and engine block. Once put back together I replaced coolant and ran the car trying to bleed the air out. I made sure the overflow tank was above the hood latch and the cap was off also while running the car. The bleeder on the overflow was loose also. Ran the car for about 20 minutes and no overheating, fans kicked on and still no overheating. But like I said before never had the issue of overheating will it was running still. Have not taken it for a ride yet. Lower radiator hose seems to be pressurized really bad also. Like the coolent is not getting through. Upper hose is hot but not lower one. Can air in the system cause this? Do I need to bleed the air through the engine block? If so ho is this done, do you do it while the car is running or not?
 

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Also I forgot to add that there is not heat coming from my heater in the inside of the car. Heat was on while I was bleeding system but never got hot.
 

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Follow the NewCelica link I provided, there are multiple ways to test a coolant leak although you may want to see what's up with the coolant hose you mention(one side being stiff and other loose sounds sketchy).
 

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Yeah, this is really starting to get on my last nerve. I think I have a bad head gasket, I just do not know as to why the coolant is not running through the block like it should. Seems like there is something stopping it from flowing. This is why I think it overheats when I drive the car and not when its sitting in place. Something internal must be going on. Well to the shop it will go. Thanks for the help and if you think of anything else let me know.
 

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I'd say you have a leak somewhere and air may be in the system.....but have your shop check it out and brief you as to what they exactly did. Don't want to be told they did something when they didn't. Ask for old parts
 

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The coolant goes into the radiator in the bottom hose and comes out the top hose into the engine block.

When the engine is running at normal temp and the cooling fans are blowing, if the bottom hose is pressurized and the top is soft, then looks like there are blockages inside the radiator, most likely caused by calcium deposits by hard water.

You may want to pressure test the radiator to confirm blockage. Or you may want to dissolve the calcium, by adding radiator treatment liquid into the coolant, run the engine and let it dissolve the calcium. Follow instructions for the liquid. It's corrosive so Dont leave it in the system too long.

Flush the cooling system with DISTILLED WATER ONLY, running the engine hot with the heater, fan and A/C full blast. After draining the water, fill the cooling system with TOYOTA's red coolant fluid with proper mix of DISTILLED WATER. The instruction to fill and bleed the cooling system is pasted on the hood.

Good luck.
 

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I have the same problem with my daughters '04 Celica GT. It's been in my shop for 3 months now and I am about ready to take it to the scrap yard! In the last 3 months we have put new radiator, new thermostats, new water pump, and now a new heater core (which was a real P.I.T.A). I even tested both the old thermostat and the new one to see if it was defective and both open at about 185 F. I still have the same problem. It will idle forever with no problems, radiator fans cycle on and off as they should, drive it down the road and will briefly overheat and then cool back down. No hot air from the heater no matter what. I have burped the system per Toyota's instruction, several times, and also tried my own "force feed" method of forcing coolant into the return hoses and heater core. There is no oil getting in the coolant, no coolant in the oil, and not loosing any coolant. I can feel hot coolant on input side of heater core, but it never seems to be exiting the heater core, that hose stays cold. The only part of the system I haven't had apart is the tubing from the heater core to the water pump. This appears to go under the fuel injection and intake, so it looks like I'm going to have to remove all that and see if there is a valve or a blockage of some kind. I guess I'm about to tackle that next, but any help or ideas are welcome!
 

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The cooling systems on these cars are very touchy, it is hard to get air out of them and it often gets trapped in the heater core. I usually take off the fill cap and the small while cap and I blip the throttle to 4k over and over to "burp" the air out. Then I put the cap back on and ride it around, getting through the rev range. Then carefully I crack the caps to let air out.
 

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I have a 2002 GTS with 300K miles. I overheated a couple times with broken coolant hoses and broken serpentine belt. Engine still runs smooth and strong now, no problem after fixing leaks and refilling. Dont know if the GT cooling system is different.

Check to make sure you are not losing coolant and there are no coolant leaks anywhere and no coolant in oil, also no oil in coolant, to make sure there are no cracks in the engine.

If the overheating is transient, it points to a large block of air in the cooling system. When the air moves past the engine temp sensor, it shows a quick overheat signal. This problem is harmless. Eventually that air will be driven out.

No heat from cabin heater also points to an air block in the cooling system.

I would do another burping to make sure most of the air is out of the system. Small air entrapments will eventually get driven out of the reservoir.

You may also want to add radiator flushing chemicals and dissolve any calcium blockage.
 

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After burping there may still be a large bubble of air trapped inside the engine or radiator, causing occasional engine overheat and no cabin heat.

Wait for the engine to cool down a bit. Open the black cap on the coolant reservoir. Pressure in the system will blow the air bubble out.

Dont open the cap when engine is hot, as high pressure will blow out coolant.
 
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