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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day guys, please help I need this car for work asap as I am renting a mates car.

I am having a no spark issue with mine, first thing after a bit of research, I replaced my ignition coil (inside the distributor housing).
And the cap. Still no luck with any spark.

Just to add
I am checking the spark directly at the ignition coil contact point.
I have 12v at the 2 pin plug that goes to the distributor.

Also the 4 pin plug (see photo)is that the cam angle sensor ??
If not what is that for ?

TIA
 

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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Good day guys, please help I need this car for work asap as I am renting a mates car.

I am having a no spark issue with mine, first thing after a bit of research, I replaced my ignition coil (inside the distributor housing).
And the cap. Still no luck with any spark.

Just to add
I am checking the spark directly at the ignition coil contact point.
I have 12v at the 2 pin plug that goes to the distributor.

Also the 4 pin plug (see photo)is that the cam angle sensor ??
If not what is that for ?

TIA
 

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The distributor pickup coil sends a signal to the ecu to indicate position. The edu sends a signal to the icm to spark. The ibm causes the coil field to drop by disconnecting the coil circuit.

You need to:
  • verify that all wires involved are working properly but pulling plugs, and testing end to end. You'll need a service manual. Also, check that ground is good four all of these items.
  • verify primary voltage is found on all items. These would include 12v or 5v control signals etc (this indicating that fuses and relays are good)
  • you'll then need to verify the proper signals are showing up on each wire. This is best done with an oscilloscope, but these are expensive. Sometimes, you can judge the signals using a sensitive analog meter and watch the needle bounce. You could also use a more expensive digital meter(dvm) that can calculate duty cycle. You'll need to understand the signal wave and ensure the dvm has enough same rate to pickup the signal minutiae ie:

Engine running at 800 rpm, it is sendin 800 blips per minute to the ecu. If each blip is a millisecond, then duty cycle will be 1.3% (800*.0001/60). The ecu would be sending 4x blips to the icm (4 cup engine). The might be 1 msec or 2, 3. If 2 then duty cycle could be 10.6%. The icm to coil would a related inverse of the ecu-icm. Remember, this circuit is always on, except when spark is desired and the circuit is interrupted. If this is a 3 msec cut off then duty cycle would be 90.4% (100-(800 rpm * 4 cyl * .003 msec / 60 sec)

If there is 0 duty cycle on the dist-ecu or ecu-icm OR 100% or 0 on the icm-dist then the source item is bad.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Issue resolved

Missing tach signal at the ecu from the ignitor.
Ignitor working fine
Reason unknown
Ran new wire from the ignitor to the ecu and she fired right up.

I would still like to know, if the tach signal goes through the factory equipped security system module ?

thanks
 

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If the engine is running and the tach is not, then the capacitors on the back of the tech are bad. It's a common problem with Toyota's of that timeframe. Lots of posts in the Lexus and mr2 forums on how to repair.

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