[Turtlekingmaster]

I am all jumbled over dealing with an engine code. I decided to bleed brakes because it seemed easy. But after a few failed attempts, I realized that it wasn’t working the way I wanted to. No liquid was coming out after a few cycles of open press brakes, then close and release. I got close to the bleed valve and heard air coming into the bleeder line, couldn’t tell if air got into the brake lines. I went to the other side to see if it was the line being loose onto the valve nipple or just the actual valve not being tight onto the drums itself. It worked just fine, no air. But after a few cycles. Again it stopped pumping liquid. I’m completely lost here. Yes I started on the driver side rear, because it’s the furthest from master cylinder. I’m unsure it’s a clog, bc it was pumping fine for a few times. I’m 70 percent sure I also added air into the lines in the rear so that’s also cool. Any ideas? I’m going to get New bleeder valve screws and see if that fixes the air issue

 

[Sea-J]

There are numerous youtubes that show how to properly bleed them. Like you start with the furthest from the master cylinder, put some fresh dot into a jar, about two inches and run your bleed hose into the jar. Connect the other end of the hose to the nipple and loosen it just a tad, no need to open more than half a turn. This is a two person job. Make sure you have sufficient fluid in the brake reservoir, have some one push the peddle down ONCE and close the nipple valve before letting the peddle up without letting the hose out of the jar otherwise you will draw air back into the lines. let up on the peddle, open the nipple again and repeat the peddle thing. You have to make sure to keep the reservoir full otherwise you will pump air into the lines.
Bleeding Brake Lines By Yourself - YouTube

 

[PETER PAN 2009]

Try the power brake with engine on at idle. Pump the brake a couple times. hold the brake down and have someone open the bleed valves to let air or any debris out.

The power brake has high pressure to force out any debris blocking the line.

Add lots of brake fluid to keep the reservoir full.

 

[Turtlekingmaster]

The issue isn’t that I’m not aware of how to do it. Yes I did mess up but the issue is that no fluid is coming out at all

 

[Sea-J]

No fluid from any line? Makes me wonder if the master cylinder plunger seals are bad. Had that happen on my Jeep last summer. I would step the pedal down and the seals were so bad the fluid just bypassed the plunger. Had to get a new master. Any check brake light on the dash?

 

[Turtlekingmaster]

No check brake lights. Although the brake light is on, as if the e brake is on even when it isn’t

 

[Sea-J]

What year/model are we talking about?
If you're really stumped start from the master cylinder and work your way back to the pads. I doubt the lines are "plugged" unless there is rust in them in which case they would need to be replaced.
Checking some parts sites, Parts Geek/ Rock Auto, Carid etc. the master cylinders are around $50. =/-

 

[Turtlekingmaster]

It’s a 2000 gt

 

[Turtlekingmaster]

Well I figured out the issue. I was adding fluid to the power steering instead of the brakes. The entire system is dry so I’ll have to add completely new fluid. Anything to look out for when adding new fluid to an empty line?

 

[Sea-J]

You'll have to flush out the power steering system. Brake fluid is not a lubricant and the two are not compatible.

 

[PETER PAN 2009]

If your car has ABS, air in the system may cause a problem.

I never had to bleed air from the ABS. I believe it's a special procedure. Be careful.

 

[AsaGT4]

Think Peter is on the right track. You might need a scan tool that has Bi-directional Control. So you can get Air out of the system. Most ABS car you only do if have that type of tool.

 

[Turtlekingmaster]

Thank you I’ll look into it. I did manage to bleed the power steering, with much satisfaction it was a lot easier. Brakes were refilled and now ima try to look into the abs system thank you!