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Discussion Starter #1
Gotta forgive me for ignorance. Could someone please tell me where to check the differential gear oil, where to fill etc.
A picture would help if someone has it. Had the car for two weeks now and just de-greased the engine. Lots of oil on the backside around the transmission and found the speedometer cable hold down was loose and thinking this oil was coming from the differential. I've looked in the pretty much confined area but cannot find where to check the oil.
Please help.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone?
Seems the A243L only has one solenoid and that's for OD lockup. So what else would cause a shudder when shifting between 1-2? I can manually run the gears without any problems, Manually shift from 1 - Drive without the shudder and If I ease off the gas when it shifts it doesn't shudder, only when a hard take off it shudders into 2nd until I let off the gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ordered the toyota book of this transmission and the problem(s) all point to the accumulators. This winters project.
 

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Not a Toyota tranny guy - but lots of experience on gm tranny's. Yes, sounds like the accumulator that provides a soft shift. It's leaking or the return spring is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Glad you said that. From what I've read it might be a broken spring behind one of the pistons. I did get the transmission book this week, it's an old used toyota shop manual that only deals with the transmissions. I've had the pan off just to peek and the accumulators look like they are about the easiest parts to get to just laying on my back. . Right now I'm changing stabilizer links and will look at the tranny some other time.
You've given me other things to look at. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update. I've been throwing money at extra parts. The engine stops after warmup so once I get that solved I'll be looking more closely at the tranny. Wondering if anyone would be interested in following this thread as I work on it. I'll post lots of pics tearing the accumulators apart, probably to find nothing wrong and I'm back to square one.
Sefiro, any input would be appreciated.
 

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Tuneup time , idle rpm and timing set are needed.

Once the car warms up, the ecu lowers rpm by closing throttle and cutting fuel. There is a minimum idle screw, an idle control valve and a coolant controlled air valve (under the throttle body). Shop manual (FSM) will have procedure to set. (They changed around the 91-92 year when there was an ecu/electronics upgrade so be careful).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got it. The idle does lower to 800rpm after warm up. Starts out around 1200; It then holds the normal idle like it should so that's working. This afternoon I found a corroded broken off wire leading from the crank position sensor to the fuel pump fuse (which has a factory jumper across it). Small black wire/white stripe. corroded off right at the plug wouldn't ya know. Tomorrow I will pull the things and solder the wire back into the connector. 'bout the first thing that I found easy to get at :) Doing some googling and read that a failing cps could also cause the problem. Right now all options are running low so I'm bound to get lucky soon.
If the crank sensor runs to the ECU that might be a simple fix or the ECU is telling the fuel to flow but the fuel ain't getting the message. Either way it's one more thing that needed fixin'.
Such are the tribulations of a 30 year old car that's been sitting idle for 5 years with little furry critters happily eating the wires and leaving sunflower seed shells everywhere.
Forgot to mention that the PO put a different short block in about 60k miles ago. He said the 5s blew so he replaced it with a 3s but everything topside is factory 5s and should be serviced as a 5s. If the block is 3s I'll have to keep that in mind when researching the cps.
I've got a frankencelica.
Thanks for involvement, I appreciate it lots.
 

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CPS?

There is no CPS on the car. ECU gets position info from the distributor.

Did you mean Knock sensor? It's located on the firewall side of the block on the latter years. This should have thrown a code. Have you checked codes?

Hah hah on the Franken Celica. Running a 3S block with a 5S head and a 5S ecu? Probably running rich.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
AHAAH. That would explain why I couldn't find any CPSs on line for the car. Learn somthin' new everyday.
Still have to follow that wire to it's origin just to satisfy curiosity.
It hasn't thrown any codes. I cleared those out last week after replacing the temperature vacuum switch. Now I just get the "normal" continuous blip blip bliip blip.
I keep reading "air gap" in the service manuals when it comes to the distributor. Don't quite know what that means. When I replaced the plugs, plug wires, igniter, coil, I checked the dist cap and it is different than anything I've ever seen on older American cars. A regular rotor and small wires where contacts usually are, Those wires were covered with a white powdery stuff so I sanded the rotor end clean and brushed the powder off and reinstalled the cap. Opinion on this? Wondering if I should just put a new cap on and complete the set.
Another day another lesson learned
Just as an aside note. Yesterday after replacing the MAF and the car started (ran before it stalled out) the RPMs were slightly fluctuating like the ECU was relearning new input. There was actually a different smell to the exhaust after awhile. No I didn't stick my nose in the pipe :rolleyes:
 

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If the rpm's are fluctuating, then it is likely in idle hunt. Idle hunt typically is caused by a vacuum leak.

BTW, these are not MAF cars. They have a MAP sensor (mounted on the firewall) reporting vacuum to the ecu. There is a sensor mounted in the input air duct at the filter , it's the air temp sensor.

As for the dizzy, if there is a lot of white dusty stuff, it's likely the result of plasma arcing from rotor to cap. Yep, probably time for new cap and rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, I'm sure getting an education here.
I fixed up the little wire that was corroded off, followed it to the air cond area. Had to be fixed anyway. I pulled the dist again and the white stuff was back so I ordered a new cap and rotor. When cleaning the cap the contacts looked worn, not much but noticeable.
I think I found my problem quite by mistake though. Last July I put in a new radio, plug and play thing but the wire harness is jammed into the tight space right on top of the ecu. I pulled the radio and face plate out and the car started right up even though it was still warm. Tomorrow I'll pull the upper console off and clean it up on the inside and make sure the plugs are tight and clean for the ecu and that no wires were crimped or broken. The PO did have and aftermarket radio in there and all the connections were with wire nuts which made the area really tight and close, I'm a solder and shrink tube guy.
Hope tomorrow finally ends this hunt. If it is a whacky connection or heat problem around the ecu I can clean that up and get back to driving while there are a few warm days left before snow flies and the old gal is put away for the transmission work.
So glad you stumbled on my thread. If you really want some excitement wait until I drop the tranny pan this winter and post the pictures.
Take care.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Opened up the area around the ecu and ran at idle until it got to running temperature and then it stopped. About 12 minutes. The ecu unit was not even warm to the touch. Doing some more googling about temperature controlled engine shutdowns and came up with questions about the injector temp timer or whatever it's called that runs to the ecu.
Not knowing which one that would be, There are six temp switch/sensors on that manifold I took them to the local O'Reillys and the counter guy looked them all up. fan relay, temp gauge sender, etc. The two wire one was the temperature injector timer that runs to the ecu. I did an ohm test on that one. Cold should be 20-40 ohms, I read 75-80 cold. I put the unit in boiling hot water and there was no change in ohms, stayed around 79/80 so maybe that's where the problem might be. Temp rising, ecu not getting info and shutting down.
Thoughts??\
It's the most expensive of those senders. The stealership wanted $148. and tax. Wasn't going to fork that over yet for what "might" be the problem.
I have the part number and other stores are asking anywhere from $80. - $240.
 

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12 minutes to shut off - sounds like fuel pump.

The coolant warm-up is typically 4-5 minutes. If the coolant sensor or wire had gone bad, it'll usually throw a code. The resistance should be 200-400 at 176F. Also, stock car has 3 temp sensors on the manifold and one on the radiator (radiator fan). On the manifold, 1) two vacuum hoses controls evap system 2) two wire goes to ecu and 3) single wire goes to dash temp gauge of so equipped.

There is a cold start injector that is controlled by the ecu based on the water temp sensor on the manifold.

150$ for sensor , highway robbery. Local auto parts store has them for 30-70. Online is less.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ya, when I start the car I just sit there and watch the clock and temp gauge. It does take 10 or so minutes for the temp gauge to show normal running. Usually about center of the gauge. The resistance test was done with both my analog and digital meters and they both showed the same mid 70's I bench tested the unit so it was air cold, about 75 deg. I then put the unit in a glass and filled it with scalding water and the meter(s) never moved so either way the thing is not functioning. Seems that I'm finding more things to replace but that's not really a bad thing since everything replaced tested bad or was broken.
I've had fuel pump problems with other cars and experience doesn't point there. I also had the pump out on my workbench last week and ran it. It's the cool down thing that keeps me looking at something temperature related.
The problem will be found sooner or later and it will more than likely be something simple an obvious.
Last resort is to take it to my trusted mechanic down the road from me (rural). He was a Toyota service guy before opening his own business 13 years ago. He does my two other cars for maintenance, Just hate to admit to him that I'm stumped on this one 😕 I ordered a used one off eBay today, $23. free ship with a six month warranty. If it's not the problem I'm not out a whole bunch. I see new ones are in the $100+ range.
Official name is "Start injector time switch" part nr. 89462-20020
 
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