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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 2000 gen 7 celica. So far it has, a genuine denso maf, iacv, iridium plugs, air filter and still continues to bog down on full throttle. It only does this when the engine is up to operating temp. Not when cold. And it only does it in drive or reverse. Free revving in neutral or park is fine. When it's does bog down it will puff out a bit of black smoke and smells rich like fuel. Occasionally I'll get a random check engine light. Have had it scanned and no codes are present. It has had the battery unplugged to reset the ecu for several days as well as been checked for vacuum leaks etc. I am absolutely stumped. Any input greatly appreciated
 

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Engine revs up fine in park or neutral due to no load on the engine, but but bogs down in drive with black smoke when load is applied.

I suspect one or more of the cylinders have bad plugs, contaminated plugs, oil leaks into the cylinder or low compression.

Suggest you inspect the plugs to see which cylinders have oil contamination or been smoke blackened. Do a compression test on all cylinder. Compression should be about 200 PSI with less 10% differences between any cylinder.

Could be oil leaks from the valve cover gasket into cylinder, or low compression due to a blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Engine revs up fine in park or neutral due to no load on the engine, but but bogs down in drive with black smoke when load is applied.

I suspect one or more of the cylinders have bad plugs, contaminated plugs, oil leaks into the cylinder or low compression.

Suggest you inspect the plugs to see which cylinders have oil contamination or been smoke blackened. Do a compression test on all cylinder. Compression should be about 200 PSI with less 10% differences between any cylinder.

Could be oil leaks from the valve cover gasket into cylinder, or low compression due to a blown head gasket.
One of the coil packs did have oil on the rubber boot. Why would that trigger the check engine light
 

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One of the coil packs did have oil on the rubber boot. Why would that trigger the check engine light
Check that plug. The oil probably grounds the coil so the plug misfires intermittently. Intermittent misfire will not pull a code.

You need to find out why oil gets into the plug's well and fix that problem, likely a bad valve cover gasket.

That coil may be bad. You probably will have to replace it.
 

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I've got a 2000 gen 7 celica. So far it has, a genuine denso maf, iacv, iridium plugs, air filter and still continues to bog down on full throttle. It only does this when the engine is up to operating temp. Not when cold. And it only does it in drive or reverse. Free revving in neutral or park is fine. When it's does bog down it will puff out a bit of black smoke and smells rich like fuel. Occasionally I'll get a random check engine light. Have had it scanned and no codes are present. It has had the battery unplugged to reset the ecu for several days as well as been checked for vacuum leaks etc. I am absolutely stumped. Any input greatly appreciated
Change your spark plug wires if you have ngk iridium laser plugs , get ngk wires to go with it.
 

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I've got a 2000 gen 7 celica. So far it has, a genuine denso maf, iacv, iridium plugs, air filter and still continues to bog down on full throttle. It only does this when the engine is up to operating temp. Not when cold. And it only does it in drive or reverse. Free revving in neutral or park is fine. When it's does bog down it will puff out a bit of black smoke and smells rich like fuel. Occasionally I'll get a random check engine light. Have had it scanned and no codes are present. It has had the battery unplugged to reset the ecu for several days as well as been checked for vacuum leaks etc. I am absolutely stumped. Any input greatly appreciated
I have 2001 and mine was vibrating in drive and reverse when stopped only. Cleaned throttle body, iac, new plugs, coils. None fixed it. I took the intake manifold off and cleaned all the carbon inside the ports. Vibration went about 95 percent away. Gonna clean the exhaust ports next to see if it's 100 percent gone after that. Hope that helps you. Even Toyota techs didn't know what to do because computer scanner wouldn't tell them to clean that lol.
 

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I have 2001 and mine was vibrating in drive and reverse when stopped only. Cleaned throttle body, iac, new plugs, coils. None fixed it. I took the intake manifold off and cleaned all the carbon inside the ports. Vibration went about 95 percent away. Gonna clean the exhaust ports next to see if it's 100 percent gone after that. Hope that helps you. Even Toyota techs didn't know what to do because computer scanner wouldn't tell them to clean that lol.
Car vibrating on D and R at stop is likely to have bad engine mounts, like the main rear and the front, could also be the top and xmission mount too.
 

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I've got a 2000 gen 7 celica. So far it has, a genuine denso maf, iacv, iridium plugs, air filter and still continues to bog down on full throttle. It only does this when the engine is up to operating temp. Not when cold. And it only does it in drive or reverse. Free revving in neutral or park is fine. When it's does bog down it will puff out a bit of black smoke and smells rich like fuel. Occasionally I'll get a random check engine light. Have had it scanned and no codes are present. It has had the battery unplugged to reset the ecu for several days as well as been checked for vacuum leaks etc. I am absolutely stumped. Any input greatly appreciated
Engine bogs down at full throttle when hot is pointing to a blown head gasket, which seals OK when cold, but leaks compression when hot.

Check oil and coolant. If they are mixed then head gasket is definitely blown.

You should do a compression test on a hot engine to see if compression on all cylinders are high and within +/- 10%. Compression will be low if head gasket has been blown.
 

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If engine mounts are new, vibration and shaking may be caused by 1 or more cylinders not working normally.

A blown head gasket would cause 1 or more cylinders to lose compression, drag the engine and cause vibration.

Check the plugs. The ones that are wet or burned would have low compression.

Until compression in all cylinders are up near 200 PSI and uniformed within 10%, engine will vibrate and shake. It will break engine mounts again and a few other components. You need to replace the head gasket.
 

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Car vibrating on D and R at stop is likely to have bad engine mounts, like the main rear and the front, could also be the top and xmission mount too.
No forgot to mention engine mounts replaced also. That always first thing people say but it wasn't the mounts but the dirty intake and exh
If engine mounts are new, vibration and shaking may be caused by 1 or more cylinders not working normally.

A blown head gasket would cause 1 or more cylinders to lose compression, drag the engine and cause vibration.

Check the plugs. The ones that are wet or burned would have low compression.

Until compression in all cylinders are up near 200 PSI and uniformed within 10%, engine will vibrate and shake. It will break engine mounts again and a few other components. You need to replace the head gasket.
Thanks for the feedback. Has new plugs and coils. Head gasket is good along with compression. It's all been checked. Jdm engine they said it was sitting in warehouse for no telling how many years with carbon. Ran another bottle of seafoam through intake this evening and it ran even better. Really couldn't feel the vibration anymore but if it comes back I will either take all valves out and clean or replace with new. I'm just glad I finally found the issue cause it's been a headache trying to pin point it. I may just end up replacing valves anyway cause I like my vehicles to run right. Don't know if I'm just picky or what but used engine with 55k on it needs some loving I'm guessing since it sat on a crate for yearswa
Thanks again
If engine mounts are new, vibration and shaking may be caused by 1 or more cylinders not working normally.

A blown head gasket would cause 1 or more cylinders to lose compression, drag the engine and cause vibration.

Check the plugs. The ones that are wet or burned would have low compression.

Until compression in all cylinders are up near 200 PSI and uniformed within 10%, engine will vibrate and shake. It will break engine mounts again and a few other components. You need to replace the head gasket.
Also here are my compression test results I did.before I cleaned all of the intake manifold ports back in February
Rectangle Font Material property Screenshot Number
 

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Compression looks good.

To clean out rust and carbon deposits in cylinders, try flushing engine with MOTOR MEDIC ENGINE FLUSH. Use half strength and idle engine 15 minutes, dump out oil. It really cleans out piston rings, valves and cam shafts.

Do it a few times with oil changes. Engine will run smoother.

No forgot to mention engine mounts replaced also. That always first thing people say but it wasn't the mounts but the dirty intake and exh

Thanks for the feedback. Has new plugs and coils. Head gasket is good along with compression. It's all been checked. Jdm engine they said it was sitting in warehouse for no telling how many years with carbon. Ran another bottle of seafoam through intake this evening and it ran even better. Really couldn't feel the vibration anymore but if it comes back I will either take all valves out and clean or replace with new. I'm just glad I finally found the issue cause it's been a headache trying to pin point it. I may just end up replacing valves anyway cause I like my vehicles to run right. Don't know if I'm just picky or what but used engine with 55k on it needs some loving I'm guessing since it sat on a crate for yearswa
Thanks again

Also here are my compression test results I did.before I cleaned all of the intake manifold ports back in February
View attachment 32539
 
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