Skeaking noise when pressing the brake and timing belt - Toyota Celica Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Default Skeaking noise when pressing the brake and timing belt

Hello guys. I have a couple of issues with my beloved celica. When depressing the brake pedal it makes a squeaking noise but also the timing belt just started to make a squeaking noise too. The brakes seem to be working just fine and the timing belt doesnt seem too worn out. do you think adjusting it would be enough? dont want to mess something up if trying to loosening or tightening up
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 04:11 AM
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We have a timing chain and a serpentine belt for the engine accessories (AC, alternator, water pump, etc...). It is self adjusting via the tensioner, so if it is squealing, then it has stretched to the limit of the tensioner and needs replacement. If you have more than 5 cracks per inch on the belt rubber, that's good indication it needs to be replaced. Gates is a good brand; mine was $25 or so.

Brakes can squeak for various reasons and it is usually harmless. You can help to get rid of the noise by putting grease between the steel backplate of the pads and the caliper (obviously don't put grease on the front pad surface), and by lightly sanding the pads and rotors with garnet sandpaper.

2000 GTS 6-speed. Performance Mods: Apexi Power FC, BC Racing DR coilovers, Injen CAI, Catback exhaust, EBC 'USR' rotors, Carbotech XP8 pads, Stoptech brake/clutch lines, Castrol SRF brake fluid, Exedy stage 2 clutch, Mishimoto radiator, Moroso oil pan, 11# flywheel, Braille 11.5# car battery, Energy urethane suspension/motor bushings, BFGoodrich G-force tires.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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The timing belt is not cracked at all. Does the tensioner gets adjusted automaticslly when putting a new one or how you know how tight to adjust it?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 10:22 PM
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The tensioner is spring loaded and automatically adjusts itself. It's possible your belt just stretched out without cracking....but they usually do crack first. There isn't really an easy way to measure this. If the belt is OEM, you can look up the length, take the belt off, run a string around its length, and then measure the length of the string to check against the length it is supposed to be.

Some advice if you do this: Do NOT use a 12 point closed wrench or an open wrench to adjust the tensioner. The nut you pull against is cast aluminum and part of the tensioner and you are likely to round it off. Only use a 6 point closed end wrench with a tight clean fit. I'd suggest getting the longest one you can find too, as it takes considerable force to loosen the tensioner and get the belt off. Socket wrenches won't fit on it due to clearance issues.
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2000 GTS 6-speed. Performance Mods: Apexi Power FC, BC Racing DR coilovers, Injen CAI, Catback exhaust, EBC 'USR' rotors, Carbotech XP8 pads, Stoptech brake/clutch lines, Castrol SRF brake fluid, Exedy stage 2 clutch, Mishimoto radiator, Moroso oil pan, 11# flywheel, Braille 11.5# car battery, Energy urethane suspension/motor bushings, BFGoodrich G-force tires.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Light Force View Post
The tensioner is spring loaded and automatically adjusts itself. It's possible your belt just stretched out without cracking....but they usually do crack first. There isn't really an easy way to measure this. If the belt is OEM, you can look up the length, take the belt off, run a string around its length, and then measure the length of the string to check against the length it is supposed to be. <br />
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Some advice if you do this: Do NOT use a 12 point closed wrench or an open wrench to adjust the tensioner. The nut you pull against is cast aluminum and part of the tensioner and you are likely to round it off. Only use a 6 point closed end wrench with a tight clean fit. I'd suggest getting the longest one you can find too, as it takes considerable force to loosen the tensioner and get the belt off. Socket wrenches won't fit on it due to clearance issues.
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Hey im back. Well i was checking the issue and noticed that it makes noise when the car is cold, as it warms up the noise goes away.<br />
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The noise seems to be coming from where the serpentine belt is at but also noticed that the higher the engine rpms the louder the noise. Are the serpentine belt rpms affected by the ones of the engine? Or are they always the same no matter how high the rpms of the engine? Ill be posting a video with a cold start tomorrow

Thanks
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-21-2017, 12:29 AM
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Yea, the belt always matches engine RPM. Sounds like classic belt slip. Just replace it.
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2000 GTS 6-speed. Performance Mods: Apexi Power FC, BC Racing DR coilovers, Injen CAI, Catback exhaust, EBC 'USR' rotors, Carbotech XP8 pads, Stoptech brake/clutch lines, Castrol SRF brake fluid, Exedy stage 2 clutch, Mishimoto radiator, Moroso oil pan, 11# flywheel, Braille 11.5# car battery, Energy urethane suspension/motor bushings, BFGoodrich G-force tires.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, the belt always matches engine RPM. Sounds like classic belt slip. Just replace it.
Alright thank you. Ill do it ASAP
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 03:48 AM
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I had squeaky noise. Changed a new serpentine belt and noise was gone.

I bought the Gatorback belt from Good Year. Supposed to be quiet belt.

If you know how to do it, changing serpentine belt is easy, like 5 minutes if you have done it once and know how to do it.

I use a regular 19 mm closed socket wrench, about 6" long, on the stationary bolt head. Add another wrench at the end for leverage. Press down will release tension on the belt. I can do this op by myself, no problem.

The other Celica site has pictures of the routing of the belt.
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