12 year mechanic at a complete loss, Please Help!! 92 celica gt 2.2L - Toyota Celica Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2017, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Default 12 year mechanic at a complete loss, Please Help!! 92 celica gt 2.2L

ok so iam going to start from the very beginning. so ive owned this car for about 4 years now been a great running car. about a month ago i was on my way to town and heard a loud pop it ended up being my brake caliper top bolt some how come completely loss and fell out which caused my caliper to dig into my rim a litle and cause violent shaking im talking absolutely horrible worst then driving a car on a flats every time id try to slow down due to the caliper not grabbing right / during all the violent shaking some thing happened and my car will no longer run right it has no power at all really now and just to get it to move i have to hold the gas petal to the floor and it bearly moves at all then and when it finally starts moving i have to have the gas petal to the floor and the car takes so long to get up to speed, like the car will slowly start moving and ill have the petal to the floor then the car will slowly pick up speed and during this the car is about 4-6k,rpms almost red lining from 1st gear all the way to last and untill i get up to 60 to were i can finally back off the gas. now when i first start the car it runs great for the first 5-10 sec then the idle drops all the way down to 100-200 rpms almost dieing if it dont die, and if i put it in gear it dies istently unless i have the gas petal to the floor. i did the old school diagnostics check with a jumper wire and got code 31 > vacuum / vacuum sensor replaced all sensors all vacuum hoses, code went away and started getting code > 24 air flow meter so replaced that now when i do the check my check engine light just sits there flashing non stop it never stops flashing so now i have no way of getting codes again if there are any. also on code 31 it gives the possibilty of ecm well from what ive been told and had exspeince in the ecm always signals the check engine light if the ecm is bad. well i have no check engine light period not even when i did the diagnostics check i still didnt have a check engine light on but bc its the old school method i was able to check the codes with out a light on so thats nice.

i know that the motor is good because i just rebuilt it a couple months back so i can turbo it, but i wasent rushing i wanted to make sure everything wwas good before turboing after the rebuild well about 2 months later this happened and here i am stuck

i know for a fact that the motor is good because i was so pissed off one day that i went out there and held the gas petal down with it at like 5-6k rps almost red lining for about 3-4 minutes (yes i was trying to blow it up out of anger) it didnt not blow and still runs strong as ever lol

so heres a list of things that have been done
List before trouble: head gasket plugs wires filters lifters springs seals from the block up all of them valves, rotor bug , head was ported and polished bringing the compression from 9.5: 1 to 10:1 car ran amazing no issues at all till the caliper issue

List after trouble: all sensors on the entire motor have been replaced, all vacuum lines, all wires have been checked for breaks timing was checked , valves were checked, vacuum pressure good, pretty much since the caliper issue i have replaced everything on or around the motor the only thing i have noticed is if i unplug the brake booster vacuum the car idles up kinda high tbh and runs a little better but as soon as i go to put it in gear it still runs like **** and almost dies

im completely at a loss here i have no clue at all what could be the issue ive been going over the car so much i have no idea what it could be and usually i always figure the problem out this is the first time ive been stumped so bad ive considered selling my baby and after all the work put into it i just cant so please if any one has an idea other then sensors and the basic common sense stuff please let me know thank you
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 12:06 AM
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Battle buddy have a air mixture screw? I have a 84 22RE. Mine has a air mixture screw. And if that gets touched. It could really mess up the a mixture. Cause my car die a lot. If you already at a High Rev if you can run the car at 2000 RPM for 2 minutes. Bring back to idle. Adjust air mixture screw accordingly. Did you check the voltage on your ignition control module? Did jump a tooth in timing? Also cruise control cable can wreak havoc if not set right. My car months ago when driving, will get locked at 50 to 60 miles per hour. Cooking my brakes trying to slow down the car was stuck acclerating. Found out afterwards that my cruise control cable had frayed and got caught on the throttle cable or detent cable and kept kicking out. Which would lock me in I would have a speed I was going at that time. But your transmission kickdown cable I would check to. Just some ideas
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 12:07 AM
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Throttle body*
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 09:42 AM
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It seems that this issue happened right after the caliper situation which made a loud pop. Do you think something might have penetrated the block to cause loss of pressure? Also did you recheck all your seals? I wonder if maybe something might have broken off the caliper area and punctured the block somehow or maybe a gasket somewhere has been blown.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 08:53 PM
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Agreed : search block etc

Raise front end, make sure wheels spin. Start car while in air and and engage wheels - see if symptoms change (trying to see if wheel or tranny related).

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 05:58 AM
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Great post , thanks !!
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 07:47 AM
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I really like this post. . .
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 10:50 AM
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Great informative post. . .
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 04:40 PM
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Raiden - any luck?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 12:04 PM
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Yes might be . .
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