moderate build

[Jasonhughes2009]

OK so I'm mainly just going to use this as a reference. im going to be doing some research over the next couple of days and this is where all potential parts are going.to go.

main goal is to just push out around 300 ft/lbs. I'm still trying to keep the same (or as close to) fuel mileage. just want a bit if extra power out of it. it will all be internal work as I really don't see the point of forced induction on gasoline when it doesn't need it to ignite the fuel or make it any more efficient.

suggestions/comments/tips? post below.

cams


followers

tappets(not sure what Toyota calls them)

valves

seats

guides

keepers

head gasket

head milling prices tbd

pistons

rings

rods

crank

crank bearings

rod bearings

oil pump

timing sprockets and chain


the lower end may just turn into a factory rebuild kit bored slightly over.

[garrisonboobs]

Not sure if you have seen this but this is a list of some parts to make a nice n/a

Daily Driver $50 - $3500
Step 1 - Injen CAI (AEM or E-bay w/ Blue bomber mod if you don't intend to continue to step 5 and beyond.)
Step 2- Exhaust - Magnaflow - RSR, something free flowing. TRD is not free flowing.
Step 3 - DD Performance Research Intake manifold with Q45 Throttle Body
Step 4 - Ceramic coated PPE race header with NO cat.
If you can't afford PPE then Ceramic coated ported stock header with decat
Step 5 - Lightweight flywheel


Weekend Warrior $3500 - $5500
Step 6 - Power FC w/ higher rev limit
Step 7 - Cams - piper stage 3s.
Ferrea or MWR valves and springs
Circuitworx oil pump gear
Underdrive pulley on alternator

Entry level race spec $5500- $9500
Step 8 - Ported & polished head
Bored out throttle body port matched to intake manifold
DD performance Research short runner Intake manifold port matched to head
Header port matched to head
Mahle 12.3:1 pistons
Polydyn or Swain ceramic coating on underside of head and valves & top of piston
Polydyn oil dispersant on crank and rods
A/C delete
Underdrive on water pump
Injectors
Fuel Pump
MWR bearings
Head and block studs
Crower rods (lighter than stock)

Serious Race spec $9500 - $16,500
Step 8 - Custom Race spec Intake manifold (ITBs optional)
Carillo rods
lightened crank
13.0:1 or higher CR wiseco pistons
Darton / MWR sleeved block
Custom CAI / air delivery system

Pro race / Baller
Step 9 - MWR Dry Sump
Lighweight clutch disc and pressure plate
Electric Power Steering conversion
Custom Electric water pump
Titanium Valves, retainers & keepers
Titanium Rods
Custom race header with Burns collector and straight through titanium exhaust or open non merge header

[Jasonhughes2009]

I did see that, but i want to take a different approach to it.

intake piping will be the factory setup, but the manifold runners are all going to be custom ported. Ive done it on a couple I6's before and it helped quite a bit. As you go down the firing order the piping will be bored/honed out slightly more since the cylinder before it will take the majority of air stored in the plenum since its a shorter distance for the air to travel to cyl 1 vs cyl 2 vs cyl 3 vs cyl 4. then i think im just going to make my own exhaust, ive got some piping lying around, but the factory exhaust will more than likely do fine for me, unless i can figure out a way to give it more flow while making it quieter.

[Jasonhughes2009]

called my buddy at the machine shop today. to mill the head and enlarge the valve ports along with complete magnaflux im looking at 150 bucks... so thatd be a good place to start once all the head components come in

[Snowfork]

So you want 300 ft/lbs? Easier said than done and if I recall that is a big jump unless you plan to jack up the compression a lot.

[Jasonhughes2009]

Originally Posted by Snowfork

So you want 300 ft/lbs? Easier said than done and if I recall that is a big jump unless you plan to jack up the compression a lot.

shouldn't be too difficult. probably more frustrating than anything. 300 is just a goal point. if I don't hit it I don't be too bummed. supposed to be a commuter car anyways. it would just be nice to not feel like I've got an anchor in my trunk.

[Snowfork]

Sportier manifolds and good flowing exhaust should be enough without needing to do internal work.
Unless of course you want to re-ring it for shits and giggles

[Jasonhughes2009]

while I do agree with you. at 172k miles Im pretty sure it could use a good fresh start as is. so I figure while I'm in there.... why stay stock. plus I want to see how the intake tuning works on gas... if it makes a difference at all. if no difference ill just get some aftermarket component. in terms of exhaust though... I suppose I could look into high flow cats... but Idk about the muffler. I d want something that's quiet yet still non restrictive. I think I'm up sh*t creek there.

[2000celicagtmg]

Good luck on all this Jason, post pics and let us know what happens in the end.

[Jasonhughes2009]

will do. still trying to track down parts... no one seems to have engine components listed for Toyota's so I'm either going to have to go custom made or have to drop a set of valves out and get the measurements and shop through measurement size. hopefully I can avoid all that and just find a build spec sheet instead.