Rear control arm bolt is stuck, and is this bolt a toyota dealer item only? - Page 2 - Toyota Celicas - The Toyota Celica Forum
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the long bolt wont turn at all, its rock solid, i tried turning it with a breaker bar and it wont budge unless i break it, i never tried standing on the breaker bar yet but i have a feeling it will just snap the bolt off.. i dont have air tools..
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You might have to bring it to a shop they might have to heat it up and hammer it out. It has to be rusted to the knuckle.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Patience is key! Do not get in a rush and use some heat on it followed by the cheater bar if need be, an impact wrench if you can rent or borrow would be a big help. If not then use heat and hammer on the cheater bar.

Check out this link My PB Blaster vs. Kroil test - The Stovebolt Forums no offense to PB Blaster fans, its a decent product but when things are really struck just like in the test at the link I have found Kroil far superior -- you just can't run down to the store and buy it, have to order it and wait for it to come. Years ago I had a Ford flathead V8 with pistons stuck in it like the engine in the link. It had set for years behind a gas station, prior owner used PB Blaster and gave up. Kroil, heat and patience were the answer.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i gave up, i put the car back together.. i read about that torch thing but the thing is it could destroy the control arm bushings and maybe even the trailer arm bushing since its pretty close by...

i really wanted to find out if it was the screw causing the horrible squeaking noise or if it was the bushing.... i guess ill have to bring it into the shop, i already got the poly bushings for the control arms but i do not want to use them anymore since i read that they could eventually cause horrible squeaking noises which is exactly what i am trying to fix right now..
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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but i think that a bolt and nut design ? so if the head breaks off you can just punch it through the other side ?

when the breaker bar fails. use a long pipe on the breaker bar. i have a 4 foot pipe for that use. no bolt ever won a fight

or i guess you can just cut it off.

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Old 12-30-2012, 07:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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starting to think maybe i should just pick up a torch and just replace one side of the car with the polyurathane bushings... a torch is only about 30 bucks and it will be free if i do the install my self... im pretty sure you cant rent tools down here in vancouver bc.. i tried one time and they dont offer tool rentals which sucks..

edit- this torch should do the job right?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en
only 16 dollars lol.. might just invest in a better one
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Last edited by blaze; 12-30-2012 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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just drove this dang thing again and its squeaking even louder or maybe its cause i havnt driven it in a few days... i lubed the thing up with allot of white lithium grease too... i wonder if it could be the alignment making the control arm bind... one of the rear control arm controls the toe in and out, i wonder if this could be putting to much stress on the control arm thats causing the squeaking noise..
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I GOT THE BOLT OUT!!! and i can tell where the horrible horrible binding/creaking/squeaking noise is coming from... its coming from the outer control arm bushings, it looks to be like a spherical type bushing which seized up completely and is causing the control arm to bind every time you hit a slight bump in the road... so now i just need to get a shop to press out the old bushings and i will press in the bushings my self..
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaze View Post
I GOT THE BOLT OUT!!! and i can tell where the horrible horrible binding/creaking/squeaking noise is coming from... its coming from the outer control arm bushings, it looks to be like a spherical type bushing which seized up completely and is causing the control arm to bind every time you hit a slight bump in the road... so now i just need to get a shop to press out the old bushings and i will press in the bushings my self..



Good job!!!!!! How did you get it out??????
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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i bought a mapp pro torch and heated it up a few times then i used the breaker bar and gave it some hits with a 32oz ball pein hammer and it broke loose
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