Join Date: Apr 2010
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|You have a diagnostic connector under the hood, just behind the driver's side strut tower. Open it, and jumper (you can use a paper clip) terminals TE1 and E1. With key in ignition, turn it to the ON position (don't start the car). Your check engine light should be flashing. You should have a set of flashes that are rapid, a small pause, then another set of flashes, followed by a long pause, then it starts over again. Count the number of flashes. Say you have 5 rapid flashes, short pause, then 4 rapid flashes, then long pause. That would be code 54. Do this test and tell us what code(s) are flashing. This will really help you with your problem.[/B]|
Per the shop manual:
If a malfunction is detected when in the normal mode, the ECM lights up the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) to inform the driver of the occurence of a malfuction (for some codes, the lamp does not come on). The lamp goes off automatically when the malfuction has been repaired or is no longer detected. But the diagnostic trouble code(s) remain stored in the ECM memory. The ECM stores the code(s) until it is cleared by removing the EFI fuse with the ignition switch off, or the battery terminal(s) are removed.
Long answer above, but yes, you will get a stored DTC code number, even if the MIL is now off.[/B]
Code 14 is an ignition signal code. It means the ignition signal from the igniter is not being input to the Engine Control Module (ECM) for at least 4-5 consecutive pulses.
Being intermitent makes it a tough diagnosis.
Has any work been done on the engine's distributor area recently? Has the engine been recently cleaned or washed down with water?
Your igniter is located just above your power brake booster, mounted to the firewall. It is also just below the weatherstrip that seals water from getting into the engine compartment via the windshield when the hood is closed. If you weatherstrip above the igniter is bad or missing, you may have gotten moisture in the ingiter wiring connector, and may have some corrosion going on in there.
My suggestion is to check the area around the igniter out, especially that weatherstrip. Pull the wiring connector out of the igniter and check for corrosion. If you see any evidence of corrosion, try removing it. Also spray the wiring harness and the socket in the igniter with electrical contact cleaner and let it dry for a few minutes. Then reconnect and see if the problem occurs again.
If it does, but is still intermittent, you could have an open or short in either either the white wire or the black wire with yellow strip between the igniter wiring harness and the ECM wiring harness, or you could have a defective igniter, or a defective ECM (highly unlikely the ECM would be defective though). With your tach going crazy when this happens, this tells me your wiring harness is OK, but it could be a problem with your igniter, or with the input coming from your ignition coil (meaning the white wire with blue stripe between the ignition coil and the igniter, or the ignition coil itself (located in the distributor), or the wiring harness at the distributor. Coils have been known to go bad on these vehicles.
Hope this helps. Let me know what you find out and if you have any further questions to help diagnose this further.[/B]